Kaysersberg, Riquewihr, and Colmar, France

My biggest surprise in France is that while I may not understand everything that people are saying to me, I had very little trouble making myself understood in French. I haven’t spoken it for many years and my accent was always terrible, even when I worked at the United Nations. But once upon a time I had a decent working vocabulary.

I watched a few French movies before I left and understood very little so I had no expectations of making myself understood. But communication really hasn't been a problem at all. I give credit to the French for becoming more tolerant of tourists who are not perfectly bilingual.

 Another thing that was not a problem is having a lack of cash. I mentioned in an earlier post that I arrived with only three euros and didn’t manage to get any on my first day. But I didn't really need cash except for buses or small snacks. Crédit cards are accepted everywhere. Up to this point I only spent €70 cash in six days.

The helpful lady at the tourist bureau in Strasbourg suggested when I visited Colmar (my next stop) that I should also visit Kaysersberg, which she called "The Most Beautiful Village in France".  I don't believe there can be such a thing any more than there can be a most beautiful village in the United States. Aspen and a rural Vermont village are too different to compare yet both are charming and lovely. Same thing with villages in different parts of France.

I visited both Kaysersberg and nearby Riquewihr. Although they are only 5 km from each other,  you can't-get-there-from-here, a concept those of us who have lived in Phoenix are very familiar with. So I visited them on two separate days.

Kaysersberg was charming and beautiful, with winding streets, ruins of a castle, a stream, and backstreets to explore.  It also seemed as though almost no one lived there. There were no locals visible and few tourists. The few restaurants closed at noon! Clearly, they were not aiming to attract more tourists. I think when travellers seek out picturesque spots this is what they hope to find. But often they have a different experience. Like my experience the next day, in Riquewihr.

First some photos of Kaysersberg.  This really is a quiet, charming village, surrounded by vineyards.

Grapes in the foreground. This is the middle of the Alsace wine district. 

You may have noticed that all the half timbered houses are larger on the second floor than they are on the first floor. I was told that is because they had to pay to build by the square foot on the ground, not for the airspace. 

Riquewihr, a smaller walled city in the center of the Alsace wine district, is aiming for tourists. And they are eager to sell you their wine and souvenirs.

This photo was taken from the ruins of an ancient castle on top of a hill outside of town. It was just one more charming detail to help make a visit to this village a delight. 

Riquewihr, a smaller walled city in the center of the Alsace wine district, is aiming for tourists. And they are eager to sell you their wine and souvenirs. It was chocked full of people, both locals and tourists. The bus schedule gave me a choice of spending only an hour, or the entire afternoon. I don't think this was a coincidence. I think they wanted you to hang out, drink their wine, buy their souvenirs, visit their wineries, try their restaurants and cafes. I chose to take a quick look around and take the next bus back out.

One interesting feature of Riquewihr is that many of the shops had wrought-iron signs outside identifying what they sell. In the olden days, when most people were illiterate, this was how stores were identified, rather than with words.

I stayed in an apartment in the charming city of Colmar.  I see online someone called it Europe's Most Picturesque Town, which might account for the flocks of tour groups there. The center of town is called Little Venice because of the canals. Here are some photos:

Japanese tourists, perhaps a cosplay outfit? 

The food was still heavily German. And heavily heavy.

I am not sure what this dish is. I didn't try it. I know it was called a knuckle. Possibly a pork knuckle or shank, if pork has shanks. 

 Potato Rosti, grated potatoes covered in cheese with a sausage or two on top. Yummy actually. 

This sign features traditional Alsace costumes and storks. Storks images are everywhere and have been associated with this region for many centuries.  

Colmar was the last stop in my solo travels before I joined a small group in Dijon for a barge and bicyling trip.  I'll talk about that in my next blog.