Sunday, January 19, 2020

Bienvenidos a Nogales, Mexico. Really.

Franklin and I spent the last week traveling around Southern Arizona and spent last Sunday afternoon in Nogales, Mexico. 


Nogales is a border town on both sides of the US/Mexico border. It is not particularly charming but it has great stuff to buy, plus numerous pharmacies and dentists. It used to  be common for Americans to go across the border for dental work here and maybe it still is. 

Although it is possible to drive across the border, there isn't any real reason to do so and usually one parks on the US side and walks across. It was very common to drive down from Phoenix (5 hours) or Tucson (1 1/2) for lunch and a little shopping, particularly before Christmas as there are so many great souvenirs there for presents. I even flew down a couple of times with a friend who has a small plane. However, after 9/11 and the passport requirement for Canada and Mexico, tourism more or less died. My last visit was in 2004 and even then there were few gringos. This time in the four hour visit we did not see even one other person from the states. Many of the shops are empty as well. But as always the Mexicans are extremely friendly and pleased to see us. 

Our favorite taquito stand/restaurant was still there so we stopped there for lunch.  Taquitos are very small tacos, smaller than a saucer, filled with your choice of meat with toppings like lime, cilantro, some sauces, etc.

Sometimes we go from stand to stand trying different vendors but this time we sat and listened to someone play guitar and sing music. I don't think he was a professional mariachi as the place was too small to support one and he wasn't dressed up. This place is barely 10 feet wide and only has about three or four tables so  I am wondering if he might have been related to the owner.  Possibly he was a grandfather entertaining the three children who were the only other people in the place. Anyway he was terrific, much better voice and guitar than the two mariachis we heard on Tubac, Arizona for dinner. 


Later we talked to two different men who had been deported after decades living in the US. They were just driven to the border and dropped off. They had no friends, family, or jobs in Nogales and this was a great disaster for them. I think they chatted with us just to speak some English. 

Although I expected to see few tourists I was saddened that there were virtually none. There has never been any violence against any Americans or other tourists in Nogales. Even people who live near the border like in Green Valley which is half an hour away never go. Instead they go to Tubac which is a historic Arizona town filled with good art, restaurants, and Mexican souveniers. A sanitized version of Mexico. 

Anyway, here are some more photos from Nogales, Mexico. I did post these on Facebook last week so perhaps you have already seen them. 
The Wall. Your tax money at work

The concept is for tourists to have a selfie moment but there were no tourists on this day. 


Mighty quiet on the main street on a Sunday. Few street vendors, few cars, no tourists.  
Garage door art
This part of Mexico features a lot of Mexica sculpture. Here is a whole shop full. 

Some mariachi musicians heading to work. 
  • I'm heading back to Argentina next week. Adios for now. 

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